The Essence of the Journey!

Kasanka National Park

 

By: Celeste

Climbing the wooden ladder had me a bit breathless, not with exertion, but with nervous energy – okay, and a bit of vertigo. “There, there, a sitatunga!” we whispered in hushed excitement, the early morning sun catching the reddish brown mammal

emerging from the thicket into a grassy clearing – magnificent – gone. A black-backed barbet perched momentarily on a dead branch just metres from us at eye level so high up in the Machan Sitatunga Hide. A pair of crowned eagles perched for longer, silhouetted. 

 

Kasanka was initiated as a National Park by two private individuals in1972 and is managed by Kasanka Trust. It is only 420 square kms in area but sports a variety of vegetation zones from dry evergreen forests to moist forest and permanent papyrus swamps. It lies in the southern fringes of the Benguelu Swamps and is only about 30 km from the DRC border. The high rainfall and flat, low-lying

terrain results in an extensive marshy area – Kapabi Swamp – as well as numerous dambos: shallow, waterlogged grassy depressions (i.e. a vlei). These are rich in grasses, herbs and flowering plants for grazing. The major vegetation type is miombo woodland with tall brachystegia trees and underlying grasses. Birding is challenging, to say the least with long periods of quiet until a bird party comes through. Patience.

 

Along the rivers there are giant trees with an interlocking canopy. The favourite, of course, is the Red mahogany (Khaya nyasica). One specimen near the Fibwe guard post ensures the best look-out ever from its 18m ‘levitating’ platform. The views at sunrise and sunset bring the light in swathes through the swishing papyrus far below.

 

At our campsite near the pontoon we were surrounded by such beauty and peace, tall red mahoganies with an opening in the thick papyrus, overlooking the swamp and the Kasanka River. In the early morning mist, like a fairytale creature, materialise the shy sitatungas to feed in family groups. In the backround are the spur-winged geese, herons and white-backed ducks. On the move overhead there is a small troop of Blue monkeys, just the shake of branches giving their presence away.

 

A bush shower in a reed enclosure was welcome – even hot water warmed over the fire and transferred into the overhead bucket was delivered by the two helpers – smiling and willing. “Hop in quickly before it gets cold. You’ve got two minutes.” Wet, lather, rinse, dry and apply poison – mozzies, mozzies everywhere.

 

These two men were also the pontoon ‘pullers and pushers’ who did an excellent job with the heavy Prado. In order to cross into the western part of the park, one has to brave…drum roll… The Pontoon. It is mostly safe with only one (Park) vehicle having succumbed to the river in its history. On one of our crossings it was a bit touch-and-go, swaying and tilting alarmingly to the left. Put it all down to good video footage. At least the relief on landing is genuinely heartfelt, accompanied by much clapping and ululation!

 

Although the Shoebill has reportedly been sighted in the vicinity, we were not so lucky. Searches for Pels, walking in the Katwe area in the Bufumu Forest were fruitless. On the Chikufwe Plain we had to re-trace our tracks as the aerodrome area was waterlogged – and not even a Fulleborn’s Longclaw for our efforts. From the Luwombwa Lodge we went on a morning boat excursion with Friday – it also just happened to be a Friday. Still no Pels but plenty of kingfishers and bee-eaters, especially Boehm’s. The Luwambwa River was fast-flowing and the children had an interesting time steering the boat – a bit like the rest of our trip I guess. Colourful dragonflies enjoyed the ride as we snaked through the thick Waterberry trees (Syzygium cordatum). Hot and sunburnt, Nicolai leant over to dip his hat in, the strong pull tugging it from his grasp. “Hat overboard!” yielded a quick turnabout. A pair of Giant kingfishers displaying on low, overhanging branches was a fitting end.

 

Frank, a Dutch ecologist, and his wife have been at the main Wasa Lodge for four years, simple chalets overlooking the Wasa Lake, with resident Goliath heron standing guard. He (Frank, not the heron, or maybe the heron too) is so delighted with the area that he plans to stay on indefinitely. One can sense his enthusiasm, his positivity evident in his sparkling eyes, Swarovski binoculars a permanent fixture around his neck. A group of 11 American students and their professors were due for a two week visit and he was excited by the prospect of sharing his knowledge with them. Interrupting our chat, he had to supply a weapon to a staff member who had apprehended a poacher.

 

Near the entrance to the Park, just outside it’s borders so the locals do not have to pay Park entrance fees, is a great information centre. Skulls, displays and posters are clean and up-to-date, thanks to the three lovely ladies who are in charge: one local, an American Peace Corp volunteer and a British teacher, busy with a biology class right there.

Fascinating plaster-of-Paris footprints of puku, lechwe, sitatunga, water and banded mongoose, blue duiker. Well done for a fantastic effort.

 

We were sorry to have missed the highlight of Kasanka: the five million straw-coloured bat migration occurring in November-January, the biggest migration of its kind in the world. Next time. Never say never…

 

At sunset, loud crashing far below turned out to be a hippopotamus rushing riverwards, disappearing within a minute into the swamp. The chill of the wind and darkness sent us homewards, tentwards. Maybe a root extract from the Tassel berry (Antidesma venosum) with its proven physiological effect on the heart would be in order. How does one cure the heartache for and of Africa?