Oct 31 11

Preparation – Southern Kalahari Trip 7/2011

Marcelo

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The Southern Kalahari – Botswana style
 

 

 

 

Day 1 – JHB to Mabuasehube (Monamodi Campsite)

So Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, we had travelled there before, but not on the Botswana side.  The first leg was JHB to Mabuasehube, according to the GPS 8 1/2  hours of travelling.  We left home at 03h30, 30 minutes later than we had wanted to, with the intention of arriving around 15h00.  There were only three impressively hefty trucks and us, and the staff were friendly and efficient.  Rutted, long and dusty roads are part of the deal, not to mention jammed padlocks, popped hinges, leaking milk and broken eggs – later nicknamed corrugated eggs. Nothing can get our spirits down. We are patient, giving special time to each other; explaining fully to the children each situation and its exhaustive possibilities, believing that preparation and discussion lead to better choices and behaviour. Talking about the rules of the unfenced campsite generates much excitement and for Nicolai, some trepidation about how to go to the toilet at night. Having no electricity or water has its own challenges, and the fuel availability is also of concern.

Tsama Melon - Kalahari staple

The Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park is 37 991km2 in total, & the Botswana side makes up ¾ of the area, with South Africa the other ¼.  The road from to Kokotsha to Mabuasehube is 136 km and one averages about 35km/h.  The family was shaken to sleep, as well as camping goods and sundry.  The espresso screw top went missing and our ‘outdoor’ locks on the trailer malfunctioned.  Clearly the old adage of ‘dust is your worst camping nightmare’ is correct.  We saw an unusually large flock of 35 hornbills and several sightings of Red Hartebees.  Steenbok were frightened off a few times – they were taking no chances with our clattering approach.

actual route followed

We met Moja at the entrance gate to Mabuasehube.  We asked about drinking the water and were told that it was salty, good only for washing. However we needn’t have worried as the borehole for our campsite was broken and thus there was no water.  When I asked about the repair of the borehole pump being done, I was advised that ‘Gabarone is far and spares did not easily make their way to the Kalahari’. Repairs were not expected this year. We were welcome to use the showers from the other campsites.  Cold, cleansing, salty water – even more precious than the Botswana currency, pula, named after rain.

 The temperature in July during the day was a pleasant 22-29 degrees, wonderful for a mid-winter’s day.  The setting sun brought an instant 10 degree shift.  With temperatures as low as -11 being recorded, one needs to respect the desert lows.  Our coldest was -3.

Day 1, 2 & 3 – Monamodi Campsite

We camped at Monamodi campsite number 2 – there are only two – approximately a kilometer from the pan.  There were 16 Springbok on the pan which we saw en route to our campsite.  There was no sign of water, but the grasses were slightly less fawn-coloured and shorter than the surrounding bush.  The Springbok clearly seem to have judged them more nutritious too.  We noted three prominent types of Bushman grass, Silky Bushman Grass stipagrostis uniplumis, Small Bushman Grass stipagrostis obtusa and Blue Bushman Grass stipagrostis hirtigluma.  These three grasses are  indicators of good veldt conditions in deep, sandy soils, and are a critical food source to the grazers.

Burchell's sandgrouse with chicks

The full moon rose around 19h00 and gently touched the harsh Kalahari textures. The children are delighted by the hop-and-stop of the nocturnal ‘Kalahari kangaroo-rat’ Springhare (Pedetes capensis).  The black-tipped bushy tail was distinctive. Known to live for up to 19 years, they are an important food source for the Botswana people who are estimated to consume around two-and-a-half million springhares per annum.  A foraging Black-Backed Jackal paid us an evening visit.  These homo sapiens did not oblige with scraps so, clearly un-impressed, he moved off after fifteen minutes.  The evening was deathly quiet.  No owl hoots, no lion roars, no shifting leaves – only a single crowned plover in the distance.  Our ears searched for sounds until they ached. Our attentiveness was rewarded during the night with the shuffling and scuffling of a Spotted Hyaena, slouching around the camp, emitting his eerie call and then disappearing into the shadows.  

Monamodi Pan camp site

The sun rose late at 07h30.  I was up for an hour before.  I wanted to see the Kalahari morning and couldn’t stand the birds getting an early start without observing them.  They started parading: first came the Hornbills, three of them, Red-Billed.  Then hopped in the White-Browed Sparrow Weavers, followed by theGrey-Headed Sparrows in tow.  Ever-present Glossy Starlings kept their distance, surprisingly.  A pair of Crimson-Breasted Shrikes had settled in the camp-site.  In the distance there were two Kori Bustards, stationary on the pan, absorbing the early morning sun. Birding was varied with the Fawn-coloured Larks, Violet-eared Waxbills and Scaly-feathered finches dominating the roads whilst Bataleurs and Southern Pale Chanting Goshawks dominated the skies. The Namibian national bird, the Crimson-breasted Shrike was seen in abundance, as were Black-chested Prinias and Chestnut-vented Titbabblers.

Danica tracking

Danica joined me and we moved off to read the morning papers.  We confirmed the Black-Backed Jackal that had encircled the campsite.  We identified hyaena tracks, 8 and 10cm wide – two distinct sizes – confirming the recent presence of both Brown and Spotted Hyaena. The front paws are about 1cm larger than the back, unusual for carnivores but distinctive in these mammals with heavily-built shoulders and chests.  The fore and hind tracks were so close that they seemed to almost register.  It was wonderful to view the two species’ spoor so close together.  There were three differently- aged hyaena  faeces, distinct in their ‘whiteness’ (due to the presence of bony calcium in their diet).  There were many diggings in the area – I wonder who?

Hyaena prints

The mid-day brought Pied Babblers, Kalahari Scrub Robin and a family of Burchell’s Sandgrouse.  I look forward to the Pans that this part of the park is famous for.  Lets’ go & explore …

Tau (meaning King Lion) and his team came past and emptied the bins in the campsite.  What a friendly guy.  We discussed the road condition and the new road inside the park to Kaa Gate.  He was surprised to see it on the map already, and mentioned that the Parks Board had not decided yet whether it was going to be a Wilderness 4×4 trail or a general road.  He said that the ‘distance was too far to achieve in one day and that the grader had only been over it once.’   Botswana Parks were going to establish an over-night campsite en-route.  He offered to fill our two jerry cans with diesel as he was going to town and returning the next day.

We headed out for a morning drive, out towards Kidhing Pan.  We were advised by Tau that there was a pride of eleven Lion whose territory stretched between Mpayathutlwa Pan and Kidhing Pan.  With R15.00 per Lion spotted on our family wildlife spotting game, they were sought after treasures.  We were also keen to come across some unoccupied showers, as we were starting to smell like hyaenas.

As we rounded Mpayathutlwa Pan, I saw two tanned pieces of wood protruding from the Tall Bushman Grass.  I paused and took a look with my binoculars, only to notice the wooden pieces staring straight back at me, curiously.  Two adolescent cubs spent two minutes up, five minutes down, trying to understand us. 

...chilling

We went on, circling the pan.  The campsite was occupied so we returned from the direction we had come.  When we doubled back where we had seen the Lions, they had multiplied.  There were four, heading down the mild slope towards the pan.  They stopped when they got to our vehicle, nipped at our tyres and moved five metres off the sand track.  A pair of them started Lion- wrestling, whilst the other two got into crouch mode and began stalking two foraging bat-eared foxes on the pan.  The stalking lions got to about sixty metres from the foxes, when the keen sense of hearing of the foxes alerted them to the Lion’s presence.  The game was over.

adolescent lions tracking bat-eared fox

That night we washed from a bucket.  Some tasty rumps, & Clos Malverne Cab/Shiraz 2004 blend rounded off a superb day.

We beat the sun, which rose lazily. We wanted to see if the Lion adults had returned to

I want a black mat too ...

their adolescent cubs.  Perhaps there had been a kill?  There are five prominent pans in the Mabuasehube area and the game congregate on them. This is the most likely source of food for the Lion.  Maybe the adolescents had stumbled on some food?  We drove past ‘Lion bend’, close to the dead tree, where we had seen them yesterday, without luck.  We got to campsite # 1 and were surprised at what we saw. A green ground sheet was wrapped around two of the adolescent Lions. In the grass close by was an adult female, then another.  A male appeared, with a female in tow.  The two other adolescents were competing for a rubber car mat.  There were chunks missing in the mat, clearly they had ‘fatally wounded’ it.  There were five adolescents, two adult females and one male.  No sight of the other three.  No traditional kill either.

lions everywhere

There was, however, a somewhat traumatised family in a car. We were to learn that the Lions had approached around 06h30.  They started tugging and pulling at the tent, yanking the ground sheet from under the tent.  Fortunately another vehicle had approached the camp shortly after the lions, serving as a distraction, allowing the surrounded family to get into their vehicle and relative safety.  Hair- raising!  We watched the pride for over an hour.  The male moved off towards the pan with the two adult females, breakfast calling.  The adolescents went for a ‘shower’ (in the human ablutions), then moved off some distance from the adults, towards the pan.  It had been enthralling entertainment at its best.  On the way back we saw a Leopard, fleetingly crossing the road ahead of us on the Wilderness trail road.  

Chicken pot for supper.  Celeste had only half the recipe, we had to guess the rest.   Delicious.  At 02h30, Nicolai needed to pee.  I was on watch, while he emptied his bladder.  Back in the tent I heard a distant Spotted Eagle Owl.  Not long thereafter all were asleep when there was sniffing.  Through the mesh of my tent, I sent a torch beam out.  The 12cm spacing between eyes, moonlit head, showed off a fully- grown Spotted Hyaena.  No doubt he had sniffed out the chicken pot.  Clearly he approved of the recipe.  Half an hour later she called out, once twice, then she was gone …

We had a tough decision to make for the following day’s journey.  We were booked in at Kaa in the North.  The two roads within the reserve were in the Nossob direction, both having overnight stops.  We could go outside the park along the eastern and northern perimeter.  Back to corrugations and along the fence the whole way. Estimated time –  8:42.  Or should we take the road less travelled?

... doesn't seem far

This once-graded road would give us a clearer insight into another region of Botswana. We had travelled about 2km on this path the previous day and it looked doable.  The danger was that we were towing a trailer, had a six and eight- year- old and we were un-accompanied. If something went wrong, we were on our own.  There were no tyre marks on this route, yet it was clearly marked on the map.  If we asked permission and told Tau and his team that we wanted to go on this route, well, he may have said no.  I decided that I was comfortable to go on the road and that it was worth the risk.  We had a few day’s worth of food and drinking water. If Celeste agreed, we would take it on.  And so she did.

new road

After striking camp and travelling to the junction of the road, we arrived at said untravelled track at 10h00, a little late really.  I figured that we if we did not quite make Kaa, we could camp on the side of the road, no different to the Botswana camp sites any way.  The road meandered along a variety of terrains.  The 1st half had pans, many of them.  Each pan seemed to collect its own herd of game.  There were Oryx, herds from 3 to 35.  Red Hartebees 3-12.  Springbok 1-22.  Ostrich 1-5.  Between the pans there were occasional stretches of Savannah, golden Kalahari Sour Grass schmidtia kalihariensis.  This seemed perfect for Cheetah, but with little game on them, the chances were slim.  An occasional lone or Steenbok couple would jump up and sprint off into the distance.  The animals were nervous, skittish.  Un-surprising I suppose, considering they seldom saw vehicles on this road.  In fact, other than the odd track left behind from the grader, there were no tracks.  One of the highlights of this track was a herd of seventy Eland.  About 15% of the herd was young with evenly- spread adult males and females.  What a sight!  They moved off quickly, across our tracks in many clouds of dust.  I had never seen such a large herd, so healthy, in the middle of the wilderness.  Wow!

I had figured that 164kms of track, average 33kms/hour plus an hour for stoppages/viewing equaled roughly six hours.  We could arrive at Kaa at 16h00, perfect.  There was a discrepancy between the GPS and the map in the last 20kms, but we trundled into Kaa at 16h33, relieved.  The gamble had paid off.

Our economy had worked out at 21,7l/100km, whilst travelling this thick red Kalahari sand.  This area is deserving of respect.  I would advise that 4×4 vehicles are used.  I guess 2×4 is doable, in convoy & without trailers, maybe with diff-lock.

Day 4 – Kaa 

When we arrived at Kaa, we were greeted with a happy ‘Botswana smile’.  We were the first visitors in five days.  This was a surprise, as when we booked over the telephone, we were advised that most campsites were fully booked.  I asked about this and was advised that many people book but then don’t show.  Our end destination was Swart Pan, about 80km north of Kaa, and we were told that there was no-one there, nor was there anyone expected.   Each camp area is wonderfully secluded and most campsites only have two sites, some distance away from each other.  Not all have water, so check it out.

At Kaa, we had water and showers – not necessarily found mutually in this area of the Park. Cold and invigorating.  Although the campsite was noisy, as the Kaa commune seems to double up with road workers, military anti-poaching unit and acquaintances, it was well located for us (1km from the Kaa gate/ reception office).

After some camping admin, we set off on our 80km trip to Swart Pan at a leisurely pace.  Road markings are poor, so come well prepared with a GPS & T4 Africa, as well as a back-up map if possible.  You never can be sure when the next vehicle will pass you by, but then again that’s the magic of this part of Botswana.

 About 1km before Swart Pan, Celeste spotted a Leopard, jumping down from a tree, then crouching down in the grass so as not to be seen by us, some 70 paces from the tree.  We watched for about 20 minutes, and then slowly, she eased off into the tall grass – invisible. At that time we did not realize how close we were to our campsite.

what's up ?

 Day 5, 6 & 7 – Swart Pan

Swart Pan is large – about 4kms in diameter.  There are no showers but there is a tap, with drinkable water.  There is a source of water, borehole fed, onto the pan as well.  There is a constant presence of game on the Pan: Oryx, Red Hartebeest, Springbok, Black-backed Jackal, Kudu, Bat-eared Fox.  The resident birds that accompany them are Ostriches, Kori Bustards, Sandgrouse, Double-banded Coursers, Red-capped Larks, Northern Black Korhaans and Capped Wheatear.

nothing like itToday we took it easy at camp.  After some hot drinks, we crossed the ‘mighty’ Swart Pan.  The animals were skittish, probably not used to motor vehicles.  The springbok started pronking, perhaps preparing for the oncoming spring, in search of suitors.  We then continued towards the northernmost border of the Park, to the fence that fronts Namibia.  After touching Namibian soil, we headed back to continue encircling Swart Pan.  When we got to about 1km to our campsite, I noticed we were not the only ones watching the game. In fact, you could probably say that we were being watched.  Not more than 5m from the track, I stared into the cold eyes of a fully- grown adult Kalahari male Lion.  We were in his territory, and he did not seem thrilled.  As the crow flies, not even 100m from our camp.  No other game came to drink the rest of the day.

lion with our camp 100m away in the distance

So all outdoor games were called off.  This did not go down well with Nicolai.  However, safety first, there was no use waving dinner around in front of our lion.  That evening however, the threat came from a different angle.  After an early dinner we settled behind canvas.  Around 21h00, I heard the grass bustle, I looked outside, to be greeted by not one, but two sets of eyes, from the direction of the washing line tree.  We were slap bang in the middle of the courting territory of a pair of Leopards.  Although they often overlap, the male has a larger territory than the female, only coming together at mating time.  The male was clearly more bold and about 20% bigger than the female.  He pawed at the plastic washing bowl, confused at its purpose, whilst she stared at him about 10m back, crouched in the Blue Bushman Grass stipagrostis hirtigluma.  After checking the hanging towels for stains, they moved off into the night.

I was up 30 minutes before sunrise to prepare the hot drinks.  I scanned the savannah as one normally does.  The Leopards were there.  The male saw me immediately, moved about 10m forward, crouching  in the low grass as if getting ready to pounce, now 30m away from me.  I summoned the family into the vehicle, uncertain whether to construe the Leopard’s action as a threat or not.  Slowly and confidently in the vehicle, we edged towards the male.  The female had had enough. She had climbed a nearby tree, which seemed to have a ‘kill’ of sorts in it.  The male turned and jogged off gingerly in her direction.  As we approached ‘Leopard tree’, she gracefully alighted from the tree. In a flash she was gone.  The male passed the tree and continued in her direction. We did not follow.  We noticed that the ‘kill’ was in fact a towel from the washing line – no doubt, a trophy from the evening’s escapade.  We chose to back up and return later once they had time to settle.  Upon return to camp, we noticed that all items that were on the washing line had been removed and were spread around the camp in the savannah.

After the awesome start to the morning, we left in search of Gnus Gnus Pan.  This was a circular route of about 90 kms.  The red Kalahari sands sheltered all sorts of secrets.  We came across two stocky Honey Badgers, foraging for the day’s takings.  They are known to be nocturnal or crepuscular so this mid-morning sighting was unusual. They moved off the road upon our approach, unperturbed.  Further on we encountered a family of 12 Suricates.  Their centurion rapidly warned the troupe and, in a flash, all but he, on hind legs, had disappeared underground.  The route revealed pockets of game, but the pans were never more than 30% the size of Swart Pan. The ratio was accurate for the game numbers too.  

Upon our return the Lion was gone. There was no sign of the Leopards.  The ‘kill’ had been taken down from the tree, torn and abandoned in the veld.  All the once-clean washing had been tinkered with and smelt distinctly of Leopard.  This was all perhaps as a warning that we should not make ourselves too comfortable.

Camp chores led us into the evening.  As the sun slid away, we were preparing dinner early, so that we could tuck ourselves away early and not be a nuisance to the residents.  Perhaps the smell of meat on the fire was the attraction because as I was about to dish dinner, the female Leopard re-appeared.  She was moving from the Pan (400m away) in the direction of her tree. We were between the two.  Thus, family in the car, we followed behind, slowly, wanting to know where she was headed so that we would not be stalked and pounced upon.  She was totally disinterested in us and moved off quickly.  The kids ate dinner in the car. Celeste and I took turns keeping a watch whilst the other shut things down so that there was no temptation of titbits, dirty dishes or rubbish to the residents.  We retired early (20h30).

By 21h00, there was a piercing roar in the night sky.  It seemed to be only 100m metres away, ‘Simba’ wanted to let us know that he too was still around.  Did he know that a pair of Leopards shared his territory?  The night was restless… numerous times we heard night sounds.  There was the cackle of hyaena, at least two of them chatting to each other.  Wow, could we ask for more activity?

The next day revealed that the hyaena – spots and all, as well as the Leopard had been around our camp.  The Leopard spoor even went under our table.  There was no washing to take down, so there was no damage done…

 We left Swart Pan with heavy hearts.  Wow, wow, wow … This place is special.  It just has a great energy to it.  It is one of those special places where there is no need to talk.  One can arrive, and just be.  You need to be able to be in the right mindset to receive.  We headed back towards the Botswana/RSA border as we were to overnight at Polentswa.  This was a drive of about 6 hours and 180kms. We had to first cross back into SA and then back into Botswana as we traversed the ancient, dry Nossob riverbed.

Day 8 – Polentswa

 

sunset over Polentswa

 

Polentswa is quiet and peaceful.  It forms part of the Botswana concession of the Kgalagadi park and is situated about 3kms off the ‘main Nossob road’.  It is on the edge of a Pan, which had little to show other than a loan Oryx and Kori Bustard.  We were fortunate to see a Puff Adder digesting a skink in the campsite. With its reputation for being bad-tempered and excitable, we gave it a wide berth. Witnessing another brilliantly red Kalahari Sunset while bathing from a bucket and sipping g n’ t was unforgettable.  Polentswa has four campsites without water.  There are A-frames, long-drops and showering shelters. 

Day 9 – Twee Rivieren

Once through Nossob, we over-nighted at Twee Rivieren, cleared customs the following morning and then travelled back to Johannesburg.  Clearing customs & border formalities were a pleasure at Twee Rivieren.  The staff were friendly and helpful and they had a smart 3 year-old building to match their fresh attitudes.

Thank you Kalahari for sharing your secrets.  You have touched us in a special way. May many more visits follow …

 History  The word ‘Kalahari’ is derived from the Setswana word ‘Kgala’ meaning ‘ the great thirst’; the full English name comes from Khalagari (or Kgalagadi) meaning ‘a waterless place’.  Though the Kgalagadi has no permanent surface water, it used to be a much wetter place.  Thousands of years ago rainfall was much higher, and large river systems drained into the ancient Lake Makgadikgadi, which covered the Makgadikgadi Pans and other areas until this water system dried up some 10 000 years ago.  Average annual rainfall 175mm.

Why Botswana?  This is true Wilderness.  No fenced campsites – just you and nature.  It is good to travel in a party or small group for safety.  The campsites are large and the distance between individual campsites sites vary from 200m to 2km.  The feeling of being one with nature is truly exhilarating, but it is not for everyone.  Only a handful of the camps have water so even if they are shown on the maps to have water, this can change (borehole pumps break).  Some camps have long- drops. There are no flushing toilets.  There are no shops.  Nearest shop & diesel – Hukuntsi 112km, also  Nossob 173kms from Mabuasehube.  There is diesel at Sekoma 227kms.

It works like this.  Entering from SA into Botswana there is no visa necessary for South Africans.  One can exit via Twee Rivieren and clear customs at the exit gate.  Entrance directly into The Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park (Botswana side) is through the Mabuasehube Gate or through Kaa Gate.

What to pack.  Everything.  One needs to be fully self- sufficient.  You need enough fuel to travel 150km at least (preferably allow for 200kms).  Fuel consumption through the Kalahari Sands can be double what it normally is on easy gravel roads.  Water is available at some camps and is good for washing, but not always good for drinking (salty).

Some camps have an A-frame timber and thatching structure which may be useful.

Malaria.  None. vygies

Cost  Accommodation – South African adults pay 30 pula per person per night, children 2-15 years 15 pula per person per night.

 Entry – 160 pula per person.  2-15 year olds 80 pula each.  Vehicle entry 32 pula each.

At time of writing 1 pula = R1,07

Contact  Department of Wildlife & National Parks & Reserves Reservations Office.  Gaborone Reservations Office (+267) 318 0774 or 397 1405.  Fax (+267) 318 0775.  Email dwnp@gov.bw.

Suggestion  Once you decide to go for it, take your sense of humour , adventure and enjoy.  This is Africa at its best. Most things take more time than you think they do.  Distances are large between camps.  Allow yourself plenty of time- you need at least 5 full days to start doing justice to this area. You can easily keep yourself busy for double this. 

Mabuasehube Area

Camp Name Water Drinking Showers/Shelters A-Frames Long Drop
MabuasehubeEntrance Gate No No Yes Yes Yes
Monamodi No No Yes Yes Yes
Lesoloago No No No No No
Mpayathutlwa Yes No Yes Yes Yes
Khiding Pan Yes No No No No
Mabuasehube Pan Yes No Yes Yes Yes

 

Kaa Area

Camp Name Water Drinking Showers/Shelters A-Frames Long Drop
Sesatswe Pan No No No No No
Kaa Gate Yes Yes Yes No Yes
Thupapedi Pan No No No No No
Sizwatse Pan No No No No No
Gnus Gnus Pan No No No No No
Swart Pan Yes Yes No No No
Polentswa No No Yes Yes Yes

 

Trail Camps

These are overnight stops where camping is allowed.  Permits should be acquired in advance and there are no facilities, water, long- drops or otherwise.  Most simply have a clearing.

Boomps

16 Responses to Preparation – Southern Kalahari Trip 7/2011

  1. marcelo says:

    may the angels be with you

  2. christopher says:

    Wow, what a trip and you haven’t yet even started to the c2c

  3. Claudia karsten says:

    Wow I can’t believe u guys have no fear! Marcello u write so beautifully I cannot believe what u saw where u stayed and how I didn’t pick up 1 bit of fear in your writing! I wud hav been petrified! I def know I would never be able to do wat u guys r doing so I love reading it! Can’t wait to read ur C2C blog! Hope u update it often! Good luck and God bless all of u!

    • Marcelo says:

      Hi Claudia, apologies that it has taken so long to reply. This technology is all a bit new to me. Please know, that we love you guys and our bigger family very much. Although we do not see things the same way that others do, it dos not erase the love that is engrained deep down in our souls. Thank you for reaching out to me. Stacks of love.

    • Marcelo says:

      Hi Soozi, thanks to you and the team for all your hard work and support. You continue to be an inspiration to us. We know the ongoing campaigns will be a success. Love to all

  4. Lucia Costa says:

    Surprise! Came across this website via facebook. Awesome to see what you have been up to. Im not surprised, you were always about this type of fun and adventure! All the best!

    • Marcelo says:

      Surprise yourself. Good to hear from you cuz, sorry we’re goin to miss you whilst you’re out. Get some USA support going for the rhino … Love to all!

  5. Nita says:

    Stunning photos and interesting news! WOW

  6. Delbert Grove says:

    I simply want to mention I am new to blogging and site-building and seriously loved this website. Very likely I’m going to bookmark your blog . You surely come with outstanding well written articles. Regards for sharing with us your blog.

  7. Corinne Winson says:

    Truly awe-inspiring … thank you so much for sharing your family’s experience to date, and I will be following as you progress. May angels travel with you & keep you safe!

  8. trevor cuss says:

    Hi Marcel
    Bloody depressing to read stories like these when one has only the stunning natural beauty of Queensland to enjoy on a regular basis. Anyways …we’re there in spirit if not body…
    I noticed you luckily didn’t meet our old mate the black mamba at Ndumo… or that pesky Greater Honey Guide that fooled us!
    Keep up the great work and have a couple of G&T’s on us!
    Btw have a look at our new business website in the next 2 weeks – “www.ipledg.com” it could be just what you need to post the C2C story and the Rhino Conservation issue.
    Trev & Joani

    • Marcelo says:

      Hi Guys, good to hear from you blokes. We’ve often thought of you at Ndumo & Kosi (‘shinken hagen’). We’ve had great sightings of Trogon and are up to 320 birds so far for the trip. Great to have some Aussie support, thanks. Love to the familia.

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