The Essence of the Journey!

Selous Game Reserve forms part of the southern Tanzanian game circuit. We had decided to stay 4 nights at Hippo camp, just outside Selous, this reduces costs dramatically.

the Unity bridge connects Mocambique and Tanzania, nice bridge, but the roads on either side …

We had travelled 3 nights to get here. 1st night out of Ibo, we wild camped outside of a town called Mueda in Northern Mocambique. To get to the famous Unity Bridge traversing the Ruvuma River took slow and patient driving for 7 hours over this infamous stretch. Tanzanian officials were warm. “Karibu – you are welcome.” Stunning scenery and prolific 20m Tall Sterculia (Sterculia appendiculata). 2nd night we stayed in a town called Masasi, 15kms out of the town we lost our trailer wheel – 6 nuts sheered off. Rather eerily, the wheel came bouncing past us whilst driving on a good tarmac road – fortunately no pedestrians or donkeys hurt. We also welded the

trailer at a small village en route – lousy job, welding machine could not get hot enough. 3rd night at Kibiti (camped outside a person’s house as we had to wait until morning to weld the trailer). We arrived emotionally drained – scarred. Celeste had spoken of continuing without the trailer. She felt that the trailer would not make it all the way and that we were fooling ourselves thinking it would. We travelled really slowly for 110 kms out of Kimbitti towards Selous. Being aware of every pothole and corrugation.

We identified Selous River Camp as the place we wanted to stay. The forest was beautiful but the shade meant that we would not be able to charge the tired batteries used by our freezer. Katie and Kenny were welcoming hosts, they were busy getting their camp ready for business, with them only opening the following day. Most camps in Selous close for the rainy season as the roads are impassible. They seemed extremely organized, having 2 trucks which had brought through supplies and other. We opted for Hippo Camp as they had river frontage and we could use our solar panels. In truth the road to Hippo was extremely bad and narrow, and with the trailer, we could not turn around. It was also around 16h00 by now, and we needed to setup camp and get organized. With the schlep of getting out again, we settled.

The next day was admin day – clean out boxes. Pack away items that had not been used. Shuffle clothes around – heading for Muslim territories, ladies needed to cover up. We were supposedly in winter too. Drill and rivet the trailer. Some Ceres fruit juices had burst in the heat and together with the tins – corroded and messed, lots. Freezer was not working – the wire used to override the thermostat had shaken free, replace and adjust. Nicolai and Danica made breakfast of bacon, sausages (we had to use up some of our now de-frosted meat) and our last 4 eggs. We got washing done. Re-charged camera and assorted batteries. The children were rewarded with a game each for the PSP, they had been doing really well. Packed away completed school/exercise books. We had a late lunch/early supper – chicken Korma and went on a split time boating safari on the Rifiji River. 1,5 hours today and 1,5 some other time.

The next morning I was up before sunrise. To me this is the most beautiful time of the day. I had a plunger of strong coffee, in a half meditative state, I was ready to meet the day. An African skimmer, rippled the surface of the Rifiji river as the day started to appear. Ground Hornbills were calling, far away. Behind me, there were Greater Galagos saying goodbye as they completed their nocturnal escapades, being replaced by the diurnal Samangos, the shaking of branches revealing their presence.

We’re now about half way into the trip, has it been a success? Well, what is a success? Have we helped save any rhino? As with most trips and accomplishments, one does not see it when you’re in it. It is only afterwards upon reflection that one appreciates the merits and efforts, the joys and awakenings. Well perhaps this is one such morning. The pinkish hue over the river revealed Trumpeter Hornbill, 36 of them groaning as they flew in a southerly direction across the river. Why they were all together I was unsure, but a large flock for this species I thought? A lone Openbill, prodding the shore of the island I looked onto, was joined by a White Crowned plover that started to protest, loudly, probably anxious that he was still alone. Behind me Collared Palm Thrush was calling, another beautiful day in Tanzania.

The children had been doing well. It was an honour to witness Nicolai taking on his first book – ‘Shock for the Secret Seven’. Every 10 minutes we’d get an update – Jack had left the group and now they were the Secret Six. “ I’m on chapter 5 now dad… another sheep dog has disappeared now dad” and so the reports continued. I encouraged him, with reading not being a strong point of his before we left, he had really made good progress on the trip. He had also read out aloud to us 4 stories of Horrid Henry so far. It was a wonderful privilege to see him growing visibly in front of our eyes.

Another 7 Crowned Plovers had arrived on the island and a flock of geese from Egypt. Danica was up and went to have a look at the Samangos. Yesterday we were in the main Selous reserve (you don’t pay park fees when you camp outside the park, eg Hippo camp). They unashamedly had charged us 220USD – 65 per adult and 45 per child. Vehicle entrance fee was 50 000 Tanzanian Shillings. I felt that this was prohibitively expensive. The roads in the reserve were crappy. The reserve itself was truly superb. Even though we were effectively only scratching the surface of the world’s largest game park, the different vegetation types and landscapes we encountered were wonderful. There is the river ecosystem with the life it supports. Hippo spot most of the inlets, on the banks a variety of palms, traveler and other. The Savannahs seem healthy, with the implala, zebra, wildebeest in prime condition. Giraffe are common and with their strange gait and different pattern to down south, always a pleasure to see. We made our way to the grave of Selous.

He died in 1917, shot by a sniper in the war. I thanked him for his efforts in setting up this beautiful reserve. Although principally a hunter, and conserving for the sake of having more permanent hunting grounds stocked with animals, his role had been taken over by German government. They have since 1997 been the driving force for the modern day game park that Selous now is. They have set up a revenue split with government where essentially 50% stays in conservation of the park. The rest goes into the chasm of uncertainty. In a way, this soothed the pain of high fees that we had paid at the entrance gate. Celeste noted that there were 7 entries into the visitors book yesterday – 7 different groups that had come through. This was not much I thought, however it was early June, and the park had effectively only just started with its busy time of the year. We got back late – 7 minutes past our curfew of 18h30. We had a busy day of tracking – Danica’s favourite, exploring, observing, absorbing as much as we could for 220 USD. We had seen the tracks of female leopard, lion, eland, elephant, hippo

, giraffe and stacks of others. Our sightings were less spectacular as regards the mammals. We missed out on a pride of 7 lionesses and did not see one elephant. A hyaena greeted us at the gate, just off the air strip, as did a gate attendant eventually. Arriving at an unattended gate, Celeste got out to open and a gruff attendant closed the gate she had

opened and told us to wait. I had often found that when there was little English spoken, people came across as being rude, which may not necessarily be their intention. Said attendant was joined by a Tanzanian wildlife official and asked why we were late (all 7 minutes of it). I diverted the question by saying that the roads were really bad in this beautiful park belonging to the people of Tanzanian. However all was good with us talking about rhino and the work being done at Rhino Rescue Project. He mentioned that they had, according to the census last year, 50 black rhino. This was disappointing as the guide book mentioned 150. Someone was wrong?