The Essence of the Journey!

Xakanaxa, Moremi National Park, Botswana

Okavango Swamps

Text & pictures by Danica de Freitas

 I was happy to say goodbye to Maun, [Ma-oon] [not Ma-wn] it was pretty boring except for meeting Marmite and getting new books.

lilly magic

Mom, Dad, and I were inside at the entrance gate to Moremi checking about the water level from the helpful Park official when we suddenly heard a shriek coming from outside. My first thought was Nicolai. I dashed outside just in time to see a single Wild Dog trot quickly across the road and vanish into the safety of the thickets. Nicolai said he had seen two. After driving for a bit Mom pointed out a dark shape moving gracefully through the grass. As we got closer we identified it as a Southern Ground Hornbill. “Two, three, no, four,” we all chanted. They were scouting for frogs and other sumptuous goodies in the long grass in their slow, plodding way.

 When we actually arrived at camp we found a pair of Meyer’s parrots (Poicephalus meyeri) squawking their hearts out up in the sausage tree (Kigelia Africana) next to our site. “Probably trying to find a nesting site,” Dad said.

Lilac-breasted Roller taking a sand bath

One flew to another tree and sat on a branch above a hollow suggesting it to it’s partner. They explored the hole together, one going in then shaking his tail feathers (that were sticking out) as if saying “no”. He gave a loud trilling call then took off, his mate only a few wing-beats behind.

 Nicolai pretended to sleep so he wouldn’t have to help set up camp but Dad caught him red-handed, looking out the window. Mom went to the ladies and when she opened the door she saw an elephant munching noisily on a mouthful of grass (an elephant mouthful). She shut the door hurriedly and called to us through the window warning us of his presence. He walked slowly around the ablutions uprooting grass as he

Baboon drinking

went, leaving half of it behind. Mom peeked through a crack in the door and couldn’t see him so she scurried back to the tent hoping not to bump into him again. He plodded closer and closer always flapping his ears. Mom gave the order. “Get in the car,” she said rather loudly. As we scrambled in, Dad just sat out in the open on his chair drinking a coke. The elephant ambled back into the bushes but we could still see his large behind through the vegetation. He found a young Marula tree (Sclerocarya birrea subsp. caffra) to his liking and broke it, easily. He then moved off losing interest in us.

flame lilly

I followed his unmistakable tracks and found the nearest one 3,5m from the car. Nicolai found the tree he broke and together we hauled it back to the campsite. It was too wet for firewood but just then a light bulb turned on just above my head. We cut off the pieces we wanted and peeled the bark, sharpening the points into spears. We hardened them over the flames that night. We heard lions and hyenas before falling asleep.

painted reed frog

 We discovered a little frog outside the ablutions. He was quite striking with his white and bright crimson blotches. Using a stick (he might have been poisonous), I moved him to a nearby tree. Our first Painted Reed Frog.

 The next afternoon, after hurrying back from our game drive on account of the clouds closing in, the wind whipped around the camp in a huge tropical storm pelting us with rain that stung with the force of the wind. Nicolai and I made a dash for the car; Mom took refuge in the tent while Dad went to shower. The storm passed within 25 minutes leaving us with foggy windows. As the car was facing away from the tent, we had been unaware of all the drama behind us. Mom told of how she had been trapped in the tent, how it had been wildly flapping about so much that one of the external straps had snapped when the tree to which it had been tied had broken. One side of the tent had collapsed in over our bunk beds and left the beds and floor all wet. While drying it all up, we appreciated the beautiful sunset through the trees.

Large Spotted Genet tracks

Before our morning game drive I went for a walk around the camp looking for tracks and found Spotted hyena, Cape fox, Impala, Bushbuck, Elephant and Large-spotted Genet whose tracks were right under our table. On our game drive we saw our first water-loving Lechwe (Kobus leche) with their reddish yellow flanks. A herd of 8, they left their spoor and droppings for us to study as they disappeared single file into the reeds creating their own game path as they went.

 We experienced lovely birdlife at Paradise Pools and spotted a pair of critically endangered Wattled Cranes foraging on a marshy plain showing off their funky hairdo’s.

endangered Wattled Crane

 The roads were really bad on the way to Hippo pools, we skidded in the mud and splashed through puddles and in the end the road got so bad that we had to turn back.

Crossing the third and fourth bridges was exciting.

The car bumbled over the un-even logs as Mom and I followed then waded through the last section of cool water just after the bridge and felt the soft, white sand between our toes.   

Lechwe tracks

When we got back we mixed ingredients for a potbrood (pot bread) and baked it on the fire but when we were going to have it the next day for lunch, we cut it open and found it to be disappointingly doughy. So you can’t always ‘tell a book by it’s cover.’ We had to have Salticrax and cheese instead!

Tsodilo Hills – Botswana

Gathering of the ancestors.  Often overlooked by travelers to Botswana, this area is known for the culture and heritage it holds. 

“At the time I was at the slippery hills, I had a feeling that I was at a great and ancient temple.  Indeed, from the moment I first saw them rising suddenly from the flat plain… I had the same upsurge of emotions that made the psalmists cry out loud: I will lift mine eyes unto the hills, from whence cometh my help.”   – Laurens van der Post

Sir Laurens van der Post explored this area

Sir Laurens van der Post's plaque, under which he buried his note

early on and on his way to the hills, unbeknownst to him, his party killed a warthog and steenbok.  By ignoring the long-established protocol relating to the killing process at this sacred place, it was said to bring the party bad luck.  His camera seized up, refusing to work, tape recorders ceased functioning and his group was attacked by bees on three consecutive mornings.  He wrote a note of apology and placed it under the rock in an effort to appease the Gods.  This seemingly had the desired effect.

Male hill, the highest peak in Botswana

The highest peak in Botswana, Male Hill reaches 1595m.  The intention was to climb the hill, but were asked to rather not as the path had not been cleared.  We opted instead for the rhino trail.  This route takes 2 hours, but for us, surprise surprise -4,5.  As one climbs Female Hill, one goes past the Fountain or Stream of Knowledge.  We had some sips, tasting the metals. 

Danica enjoyed the art

This is truly beautiful and has figs climbing all over the rocks as well as iron oxide which fills the water, a sign of the ironmongering that occurred in this area.  We were joined on the walk by an English couple, Kevin and Michelle.  They are out from the UK,

Thebe, sharing his knowledge

but based in Richmond in South Africa.  Kevin vows to carry on traveling on his overland trips until he can no longer change a spare wheel.  We admire their spirit for a couple that are probably in their early 60s and full of beans for their discovery of new places.

Nicolai doing his schoolwork from info at the museum

Our guide at Tsodillo is Thebe.  He mentions that it is quiet season.  The museum is abbreviated for what one would expect at a world heritage centre.  Entrance is also free, and there is no charge for camping in the area.  The region is run by the National Museum in Gaborone.  We would happily pay a fee for the use of the campsite and entrance to the museum.  The only charge payable is to the guide.  200 pula for our party of 4 adults and 2 kids.  We had penciled in one night at Tsodillo, but stayed two.  There is an ablution block with solar powered showers, which nearly work.

rhino were well nourished in those days

The paintings were primarily of the San people, which were carefully done using a combination of plant oils and iron oxide.  They were focused on the marvelous creatures around them.  They had no concept of ownership and all around them was a gift from their God.  Once again the conflict with the Bantu is apparent, with the more recent paintings being from the Bantu people.  They are generally white and have a base of urea.  They also generally paint their domestic animals as opposed to the wild animals (conflict with San vs Bantu described earlier in Swaziland blog). 

Tsodillo is a truly magical place, with its own micro climate.  The hills provide shelter for a wonderful array of trees and life, which really stick out against the stark Kalahari sands.  We saw numerous tracks of Leopard, Hyaena and signs of Elephant everywhere.  The light against the ridges and cliff faces make you pay attention too.  Give Tsodillo some time, she deserves it.

The drive to Drotsky (Gcwihaba ) Caves was looong and haaard. 

road sign in the area, warning us

We averaged about 15km an hour and took 7 hours.  On the way we went past Aha hills.  This is a landmark that is noted on the map, however there is not much to see.  In fact the guide book describes the life in the area thus “… there is an eerie dearth of animal life – there are no birds and only the occasional insect.”  With Botswana being a flat country, however these hills were named.  I teased Celeste about taking the longest road to “nothing” but she was excited enough with

sticky mud

the lovely trees in the area. At the exact GPS co-ordinate, we all piled out the car and had our “Aha Moment.”  This is part of a ‘loop’ road, which goes west off the A3, almost touching Namibia.  This 250km of driving takes about 18 hours of driving but can vary depending on the seasons

We only got to Drotsky’s cave at 21h00.  We got stuck for the first time on the trip.  Racing to get to Drotsky before sunset, we went through some thick, black, soda-ash type mud.  The Prado (Staffie) would have been fine on her own, however towing the trailer, it was just asking too much.  If we unhitched the trailer, surely we’d get through?  Was there an easier way?  Winch, wrap around the base of small shrub like combretum and then with low range and diff-lock engaged, hopefully we could pull through.  It worked, slowly but surely we hauled ourselves free.  It is amazing how one can communicate so well most days with one’s life partner however in situations like these, this ability disappears.  No pictures, but we were free. 

wild dog are always a pleasure to see

The sun was setting when we came across a party of nine Wild Dog.  On the look-out for dinner, they were jogging down the road towards us.  The lead male noticed us and stopped.  This was awesome.  Maybe that was why we got stuck, we needed to meet these guys on the road and enjoy the setting sun together?  His pack was masterly co-ordinated, and it was not long before they settled on a direction, and in a flash were gone in the long grass, on the hunt…

Nicolai dislikes setting up in the dark and so we needed to prepare him psychologically.  We found the campsite, under a Manketti (Schinziophyton rautanenii).  No facilities, yet 250 pula for us all. 

this beautiful Ficus cordata guards the entrance to the caves

Strange that a world heritage site is not charged for, and yet here with no facilities …  Anyway, there were some signs on the way, some totally incorrect, and we were just glad that people were visiting the caves.

The Gcwihaba caves were shown to Marthinus Drotsky, a Ghanzi farmer in June 1934 by the local residents.  He then advertised the caves and thus they took his name.  They are situated at S20 01.456’ E021 21.258 in the heart of

rock features

Ngamiland.  The caverns have been formed in the dolomite marble of the Precambrian Damara age when water conditions and acidulated water flowing underground dissolved the rocks and later a river forming nearby lowered the water table, emptying them.  Subsequently, a variety of cave formations formed 3 million years ago.

The only way to access the caves is with a guide, and 40 pula per person.  This was a

Common Slit-faced bats

pleasure and it was good that there were professional guides, Job and Vena available to take us on the tour.  The dolomite rock formations are truly impressive.  The stalagmites, stalactites and flowstones are of the most impressive to be seen.  We were fortunate to see the 3 different types of bats in the caves, including the Commerson’s Leaf-nosed and Common Slit-faced bats.

The road to Maun from Drotsky is quite hairy and not to be taken lightly. 

superlative columns in the caves

It was at Drotsky that Staffie started getting stubborn and did not want to start.  I had to charge up the battery here with solar panels, but eventually she listened and we were away.

About 100km before Maun, there is the elusive Lake Ngami. 

sunrise over Lake Ngami

Many had searched out this lake and many had been unsuccessful, disappearing at a whim without respect for rainfall.  Which were we to be?  There is no formal camping area at Lake Ngami, however when our co-ordinates were correct we took the turn.  Within 3kms from the main road we hit Lake Ngami.  She was at one of her highest levels in years.  Unfortunately this also meant that many of the trees and pastures around her were flooded.  We therefore did not get to see the pristine flamingo-lined lake edge we had expected.  It was good to see that the area had plenty of water.  It was around 18h00 and we decided to

Colias electo, common throughout the region

take an unplanned stop and camp the night at Ngami’s edge.  This was possibly not the wisest move with a dodgy starter motor, however I figured that I would not get any help in town at this time, anyway.

We got some good late afternoon birding in.  Night Herons, Great Egrets, Sandpipers – more in the morning. 

local dairy

The early morning produced great bird watching, but also plenty of cows and donkeys.  After trying unsuccessfully to jump-start Staffie with the help of a local, some tinkering got her started, and we were on our way to Maun.

Maun –  the centre of the Okavango universe:

We stayed at Okavango River Lodge, Camping.  We were supposed to stay for 3, but needed 4.  Danica and Nicolai were thrilled with the pool and pets.  Neil is the dude that runs things together with his mom, and they seem to be in good favour with all and sundry.  They had a curry evening the first night and about 80 locals pitched up to support

trees, beautiful trees

the evening, good to see.  In fact the whole Maun community seem to come together t o support each other.  We attended the launch of the Motswana centre whilst we were in Maun.  This involved a small shopping community (7 stores) putting on 6 themed skits ranging from fashion to solo singing, to a reading from Charles Dickens at the centre designed for the occasional open air performance.  This was superbly done, with almost no budget, and the cast made up to include expats’ children and the like.  We noticed the same crowd that had attended the curry evening previously.

We had plenty admin to do in Maun.  Staffie got her 100 000km service, (even though she was only on 95 000km).  She showed no signs of the misbehaving while in the workshop so we settled on replacing the slightly corroded battery terminals and expected the best.  Maun Toyota was very average.  When I went to collect her after a day and a half, I was told that I needed brake pads, for the front. 

I had put my back out slightly whilst filling up the water tanks at Tsodilo.  I’m unsure what I had done exactly, however in certain positions, I would get sudden surges of pain, which

Tree squirrels - fun and full of mischief

were like a whole handful of needles were being jabbed into me simultaneously.  I enquired about a physiotherapist, was accordingly referred.  Well off I went, optimistically to the same centre as French Connection restaurant.  Well I was surprised to arrive at a holistic, incense burning, yoga sounding place.  It was awesome.  There I found a local lady that gave me a back massage with hot stones.  I was so impressed.  The two places on my back that were causing my back to go into spasm, she immediately picked up whilst systematically working through it.  She was fantastic.  Thereafter we went through to the French Connection where we met a fantastic French couple, George and Marie, who have been in Maun forever.  We had a delicious lunch and Celeste and Danica donated their books that they had read so far on the trip.  They also stocked up on some 2^nd hand books, all proceeds go to PAWS (organistion that helps and assists stray and abandoned animals).  In fact Marie was bottle feeding 2 three-day old abandoned kittens that were very weak.  Danica and Nicolai were sure that we could adopt them and take them on our trip.  We ordered some freshly baked croissants as a treat for our trip which we would collect the next day.

My back was much better the next day – thank you AA Raphael.  We collected the croissants and learnt that one of the kittens had died.  The remaining one, named Marmite by the children, was receiving a formula by Marie when we arrived and doing well.  The visiting vet, also working with lions in the area, was having a coffee. I spoke rhino with her.  She had previously worked with Ed Hern a while back in Johannesburg at the Rhino and Lion Park.  She asked after Spencer too.

You can easily get trapped in the Maun web.  There are many wonderful people that spirit the town.  You need to scratch below the surface though.  Moremi was calling, and we couldn’t wait …

Caprivi – Celeste

The Western Caprivi Strip is a honeycomb of delights – spoilt for choice with luxury lodges and camping grounds from which to choose. Choices, choices…

Having been to this area three times previously, we had always stayed at Poppa Falls but this time opted for Ngepi – “Always Open”, “Keep going, almost there” read the signs. We arrived as dark was settling, with huge splats of rain on the windscreen, just muddying the dust, not enough to wash the Etosha mud away. Welcomed and invited to dinner, we set up camp in record time and enjoyed a very tasty home-style cooked meal under chef Nelson in the open-air, wooden-platform style dining area. A piano as a back-drop and various musical instruments strung up above, we were in harmony with nature. A Garden of Eden, states the owner, a South African entrepreneur, Mark Adcock, who started Ngepi about 22 years ago. And so say we.

 The children were delighted with the dogs under- and over-foot, eventually settling on the beanbags. Slim comes to camp every day for more scratches and kicks his legs out in bicycle fashion in response to stimulation of his many ticklish spots. His taste-buds are also stimulated by the rice we had put out on the upturned mokoro, laid out as seating around the fire, actually for the Burchell’s Starlings.

Kavango River sunset

Our site has the huge Kavango River in front, with the Bwabwata National Park on the opposite Bank. As if to confirm its natural status, a hippo inelegantly splurges from the water to feed. Having the sites and forest pathways raked daily means we can be impressed with the hippo prints around our campsite in the morning too. 

the Queens throne, a bathtub overlooking the Kavango river

The serious ‘Green-friendliness’ of the lodge is offset by the quirkiness of the signage. The King and the separate Queen’s Thrones are open to the river, as is the bathroom with it’s tin bath atop a wooden platform. “Ladies, for your indulgent bath, get your man to light the fire here” one says. I was lucky enough to have not one, but two of those baths, lit by Marcelo the first attempt (lukewarm), and then by Nicolai (piping hot) the following try. Enough hot water for the whole family and much fun was had by all, even whilst raining!

 Rain and Wind – like a hurricane! If you are a crazy storm-watcher, this would have had you gripping your seatpants! Every piece of loosened bark or leaf or twig or branch was involved. It even tipped over the tree by our wash-up area. We huddled in the bar area and met our fellow campers: a fresh, fun, friendly couple from the U.K. His laugh was infectious and must be much-loved by his high-school maths students. She had long, soft, curling locks, as lovely as the star cellist in the movie “August Rush” – a newly graduated anthropologist who was going on to be a kindergarten teacher. Ollie and Sophie. The kids gravitated to them and spent two hours swimming with them the following day. “Don’t pee in the water or else you might get it in your coffee” – an in-your-face reminder that the water is pumped directly from the river – with solar energy, of course.

 At first it took quite some convincing to get Nicolai to buy into the idea of swimming. There was no way he was entering crocodile and hippo water.

so cool

Then we found a clever solution. The lodge’s manageress’s mom had come to visit and to help out with the garden – a vibrant lady whom showed Nicolai photographs of the family in the pool, little baby and all. That was the moment he decided to give it a try. Clever Granny! The little one nestled into her shoulder when tired but was happy to share smile all round when not. She reminded us of Cristiano, our little nephew and cousin back home of the same age who is now sporting two new front teeth and must be enjoying all the peek-a-boo games that adults and babies alike love to play.

Diving into the cage swimming pool, swimming hard up current, then floating back to the stepladder with the current was a strange sensation. The fresh, cool, tea-coloured water flowing continually past was a new experience. No shallow or deep end here.

 Squirrels, lizards, snakes, water monitors – this paradise exudes life. Firewood is cut from aliens and support given to the local community. The staff are friendly, smiling and multi-talented. Nelson, the big chef pops by and asks if we want the overturned tree cut down out of our way. The whole staff contingent are also helping with reclamation of the land in the protection of the river bank and along the entrance bridge. Great team work!

White-backed Night Heron – juvenile

Christopher is the resident bird guide of 10 years, a slim, muscular, smiling young man with cheeky dreadlocks. We go out with him by boat early one morning. This is to be our ‘river experience’ as we do not think it wise to take the children on a mokoro trip in the Okavango on account of the hippos and crocs. We are not disappointed despite not reaching our ultimate target – the STILL elusive Pel’s fishing Owl. “I saw it over this way this morning,” says Christopher, “but by now he usually has flown over to that side.” Herons, egrets, pygmy geese, night herons, coucals, bee-eaters, kingfishers, fish eagles, jacanas – an avian treasure trove. The Green Pigeons, similar to parrots in their colouring and habits were showing off their yellow, feathered thighs, lilac shoulders highlighted against their green chests – feasting on the fruits of the Real Fan Palms (Hyphaene petersiana).

Christopher shows us the ancestors

Grounding on an island amidst white and blue water lilies, we step onto the white sand, thick with reeds, hippo and water mongoose spoor. We are searching for the White-backed Night Heron but although we do not see any here, we do spot them later down the river. “Here are the royal graves.” He points out one marking of a youngster, a prince in his twenties. I wonder how he died. “Witchcraft,” replies Christopher seriously. Hmm, perhaps a spell of HIV, perhaps? “Why is there only one grave?” “Over here there lies his father, a king, but marking of the graves is a new thing.”

 Also a recent happening, a government-funded upliftment programme for the locals is the fishery. We see a few water pipes from the boat but on our way to the border we see a roadside sign. Christopher patiently explains to the children how they catch fish and breed them, with different sizes of fish in each tank. Great idea. 

hmmm ...

We pass two other lodges, more expensive, and some flooded camping sites. Christopher indicates an area where he used to swim as a boy, and the young boys still do. Nicolai is horrified, objecting, “But what about the crocs?” “Well,” he muses, “if it is your time, no matter what you do on that day, it will come.” Almost on cue, a disturbed crocodile slips into the water.

 Night is a time of the orchestra of tinkling, wind-chime frogs calling from the reeds. A walk out on the wooden platform bridge does not even reveal their eyes in the torchlight. The African Scops-Owl, the Verreax Eagle Owl and the Pearl-Spotted Owlet join the chorus and to round it all off, Pel’s deep booming, not in the back round, but a focal point all night long. Marcelo is renewed with vigour and searches for hours with Christopher within the Bwabwata National Park (BNP) on the opposite bank, wading through sharp-edged reeds, stinging prickles. Alas!

 Our family drive through the BNP the previous day was superb, with tall Leadwoods

Kigelia Africana fruit - sausage tree

(Combretum imberbe), Sausage trees (Kigelia Africana), Jackal-berries (Diospyris mespiliformis). The thick bush hesitatingly revealed elusive sable antelope, quick warthogs, kudu, impala and a great herd of mud-splattered buffalo, timidly melting into the thicket. There certainly seems to be some evidence of this area being used as a hunting concession as marked on our Tracks 4 Africa map, despite the heavy denials at the entrance gate?

mature Jackal Berries overlooking Kavango - perfect Pels country

 We do a major spring-clean of every item in every nook and cranny of the entire trailer. I even design a new tree, adorned with washed, drying plastic bags. The children’s favourite refrain ringing true: reduce, re-use, recycle.

 Everything works here, together. Mark gives us a go-away tour, expanding on his favourite passion – sustainability. With his wicked sense of humour he explains how he found this Garden of Eden and thought he must not be tempted to alter it but rather work within it’s perfection. So he decided to cut down only one tree – the apple tree (Kalahari apple leaf – Lonchocarpus nelsii). His entire philosophy is evident throughout, with mist sprays atop each treehouse to lower the temperature by 6 degrees, by building entirely with sustainable materials, reed walls that roll up, all nestled within a forest that is fed by recycled waste in which it thrives.

 I appreciate the fact that he had led us on this tour, not as an introduction, but as a think-on-this farewell with time to see, explore, and make of it all what we will first. 

 The Today shower is set amidst a reed enclosure, trees, creepers alive with frogs and dragonflies, beautifully rich and self-contained in its natural state. By stark contrast, the Tomorrow if you let it shower is too large, bare earth surrounding a showerhead marked as ‘recycled Toxic waste’ falling onto a model at our feet of the Eiffel Tower, a Dragon representing the East and the Statue of Liberty, all surrounded by toxic rivers entering a toxic sea. What you sow, you shall reap. His interactive approach with the children has them brimming with questions. His challenge to us is clear: choices… choices….

Its 04h12 and I’m overlooking the floodlit waterhole at camp.  I’m the only one here, except for a jackal that was spread over the path, but jumped to attention as he saw me approach.  The moon is not on duty today, but there was an electric storm over Etosha last night and the clouds have remained.  Black Rhino frequent this waterhole at these hours, however with the good rains over the last few days, there seems to be ample out there so that they do not need to visit me, or the waterhole. 

beautiful Shikra

There is a still peace over the place.  A Bubbling Kassina let’s go a pocket of air that needed out, then another and another.  There is a resident Eagle Owl here, and he enjoys being noticed.  The sociable weavers stir, in spite of their towerous nests, it still seems to get crowded.  Today is going to be a good day.

On the drive, the plains game seem to be doing well.  They are are plump, full of energy and voice.  Heading out we find that many of the roads are closed due to the heavy rains.  Coming up to the Ombika road, the stones seem to have been moved slightly off the road.  I decide to take a chance.  The road is very wet, and well justified that it is shut.  2WD vehicles would not be able to pass.  The ungulates look great with the inky grey clouds, bright green vegetation and puddles of water.  The animals have not been disturbed yet today, and it is great to be alone with them.  As we neared the next bend a mature shrub bent over almost touching the ground. 

only the 2nd black rhino of the trip

Black Rhino male, clearly unimpressed, he took an ostrich type attitude and went and stood behind a spindly bush.  His eyes had a masked vision of us and clearly, this was cover enough from us.  4,5,6 minutes just being in his presence was to be endured, appreciated.  Then he moved on, to the 2^nd row of bushes.  Thank you Mr Black Rhino, only the 2^nd of the trip, it made our day.

Further on, we saw a lioness move across the road to her two cubs under a sickle bush.  This was going to be her spot for the day, her shelter from the heat until the evening brought her comfort and time for the hunt.  We heard lion just about every evening in Etosha, and indications are that the populations are doing well.  When we did see them, they looked healthy, alert.

wet, wet, wet

There was little rain in Etosha in January according to the locals, however, February was making up for it.  We arrived back to heavy clouds, and they were going to stay with us over the next 3 days.  Washing was possible, but drying impossible.  We were running out of clean kit, and Celeste was getting grumpy.  70% dry – shower.  Almost dry, on a game drive, shower – start again.  Eventually, we settled for almost dry.

The rains had started to bring in the waterbirds: Black Winged Stilts, Pied Avocets, South

Pale Chanting Goshawk full of glory

African Shelduck, Red-billed and Cape Teals.  Abdims storks were aplenty, accompanied by Marabou and White Storks.  Greater Flamingo had arrived - I’m sure the numbers would be increasing dramatically in the weeks ahead.  It was great to see a few couples of Blue Crane.  One pair even had a chick that was following them around. 

Montagus Harrier

The Falcons were out in numbers, Peregrine, Lanner, Red-necked, Red-footed, a treat.  Montagu’s Harrier, Pale chanting Goshawks not to be missed.

The rivers that flowed into the pans were starting to flow strongly, bringing with them, life, nutrients.  Little were we to know at the time that we would battle to cross these rivers as we travelled north east from Etosha towards Caprivi.  Two in particular had us holding our breath as the water rippled over our bonnet.  One stretch carried on for 150m, and had some locals shaking their heads as they commented approvingly on the strength of the Land Cruiser.

Stre...etch

The campsite area of Okaukejo is disappointing.  Our last visit about 5 years ago had shown a well kept, clean resort, but weeds were bearing their heads and some of the areas just looked untidy, generally.  The jackals were still an issue, knocking bins over, with a nonchalant attitude to people.

Black-faced Impala

Namoutoni took us further east into the park.  It also brought about our best sighting of lion at Etosha so far.  A pair of lion had moved away from the pride to court and be alone.  The male seemed to be panting, eyes closed, very tired – it was clearly very hot.  The lioness got up from a resting position and took a B line direct to him.  She flicked and waved her tail directly under his nose as if saying “get up, I need love now”.  Dutifully, he got up and performed, slumping down again, as soon as possible.  She rolled over, sat in the shade a few minutes, then marched off into the bushes.  He sort of looked up from his half-closed eyes, seemed to sigh, take a deep breath, then got up and followed.  One could almost hear him muttering as he walked past our parked vehicle, following her.

Hocus Pocus

I was flagged down by a passing bus.  There was a vehicle stuck on one of the roads, could I be of assistance?  It was always a pleasure so off we went.  The bakkie, 2WD had moved slightly off the road and there had got firmly stuck. 

lots of mud

The grey to black soil particles were giving him no traction, in fact he had managed to bury his wheels about mid-way into the Etosha mud.  I stopped about 15 m back, where my vehicle was secure, and connected the winch to his bull bar.  1^st attempt, the Toyota was out.  He commented “thank you, and I’m sorry I wasn’t a stuck Landrover”.

Etosha with water & flamingoes in the distance

It was truly awesome to see this great park with water.  I had always wanted to see the pan covered with water, with flamingos and the reddish green algae colours on its fringes.  I could tick this off the bucket list.

Palmwag – Celeste

 Previously only a stop-over, this time we accorded Palmwag the time it deserves. Passing through the Torra Conservancy area, the rutted roads were wound and bound with the

Damaraland, here the environment is harsh

Aba-Huab dry riverbed – not to be attempted in a flood – with large roadworks later on. Flocks of ostriches and their many young run alongside. About 15km from Palmwag, we see the Austrian couple we had met at the Organ Pipes standing atop their Landy, scanning the hills with their binoculars. Their enjoyment was clear: a real in-your-face stop-and-smell-the-roses.

At the Veterinary Fence 2,5 kms before Palmwag we are told that we

Temnick's courser - a special in these parts

cannot bring any red meat back through this way due to foot-and-mouth disease or else we could place it in their freezer for safe-keeping. The Austrian couple pull up behind us. The one guy ‘bribes’ us into buying Makalani Palm nuts into which he has carved Danica and Nicolai’s names – so smooth. All above the children’s heads, so to speak, they however requested the story repeated over and over again, wanting explanations for every word uttered and the nuances in between. What a lot they have to learn about Africa, trust, people and life!

 The children choose campsite 2 and won’t budge. We choose number five, with the open-air, reed, en-suite ablutions, the shaded braai area and the trinkling stream with it’s abundance of fish. Warning signs: Elephant Walk line the stream, but undeterred our children spend 6 hours the following morning completing their biodiversity project – all independently. The staff say they last saw the lone bull yesterday, but after 3 days, we still have not!

Palmwag with her talisman palms

There is a lovely bar and pool area, palm trees overhead, pairs of Namibian Rock Agamas strutting their stuff, males sporting their breeding, red-yellow heads, blue-grey bodies and red-yellow tails and the female with a red-yellow blotchy head and bright orange flashes behind her armpits. A Swiss couple who have lived and worked in Durban and Tanzania for 25 years lunch on hamburgers. At NS80 they are over-priced but well within the air of overcharging here – a load of laundry is NS100 and a day-old loaf of bread is NS40-00. Not sure how much of it actually registers through the system.

 Lying in our tent at night, cool breeze and a magnificent sky, we hear the whinnying

desert giraffes, astonishing how well they survive in this environment

zebras, hooves crunching stones in the riverbed. They have come down to drink under cover of darkness, after spending all day on the opposite hill, past the tree with the nesting Yellow-billed Hornbills.

 Map and permit in hand, the Palmwag Conservancy is a treasure trove. We thought we would just do a few roads, but the magnificent scenery, wildspringbuck, giraffes, zebra, ostriches and oryx, the impossible streams …… draw us in and it turns into a 9 hour exploration. Luckily we have water, drinks and sandwiches on board. We ‘discover’ Van Zyl’s Gat, a deep, dark swimming hole under a waterfall, within a beautiful canyon, echoing with the melodious twitterings of the rock martins. We swim right there in the

Van Zyl's gat a true and welcome oasis

refreshingly cool waters of the Uniab River, with the myriads of fish – possibly an isolated population because a little way downstream, the river seems to disappear under the pebbles, only to re-surface a hundred metres further. Cleansing and envigorating! Having ‘done’ Van Zyl’s Pass in Kaokoland 16 years ago, we wondered just who this Van Zyl was and whether he is one and the same?

 The rough roads are s..l..o..w going, jarring and once, on the way to the viewpoint overlooking the confluence of the Barab and Aub Rivers, he said, “No more – no use causing any possible damage to the vehicle, and what would we see anyway!” Returning to the main track, we see a Rockrunner hopping as it does from boulder to boulder (Damara Rockrunner). Then, secondly, he pushed some high-tech button and transformed the Prado into a Tank – a combination that worked where we needed it! This Palmwag Multi Use Area is just a small portion of the greater Western Touring Route (adjacent to the Skeleton Coast Park, and for us, is just as wild and wonderful as the Marienfluss. The tortoise speed allows us to enjoy the creeping Namaqua, Double-Banded and Burchell’s Sandgrouse and the Benguela Long-Billed Lark, catching his descending peeeuuuuu whistle on video – a lifer for Marcelo (us).

there is nothing close in Namibia

The Save the Rhino Trust operates from within these boundaries and when visiting their centre, found a 4 x 4 heading out for a two-week patrol. Although we were not lucky enough to see a black rhino, this area claims to support 70% of the world’s largest free roaming population of black rhinos. We supported them by purchasing badges and the children’s workbooks, which were completed in double-quick time. They have worldwide affiliates with Minnesota Trust, David Shepard Wildlife Foundation, Berolina, US Wildlife & Fish Services, Tusk and the Nature Conservancy. They are one of the few species that can thrive on the abundant, poisonous, latex-exuding, pale grey-green, succulent Euphorbia damarensis and we certainly came across a few overturned specimens.     

Aub canyon

The two small waterfalls through the Aub Canyon were dramatic in the surrounding dryness – life-sustaining rivers in an arid land. Three large, male kudus in their prime skit across our path.

 Breakfast is cooked on the fire made by Danica and Nicolai. He laid out the sticks and wood into specific sizes. Later, Nicolai plays soccer for an hour against the wall.

Adenium boehmianum

The children have burned the edges and coloured their maps with old teabags – ready to set off to search for treasure. Not surprisingly, we find the swimming pool, a treasure indeed in this heat. Memories of the large, succulent-stemmed Impala lilies on the rocky outcrops, a special subspecies found only in northern Namibia (Adenium boehmianum) live on ….

Twyfelfontein – Celeste

 Damaraland – a name exuding magic and intrigue. It is my 41^st birthday with a chance for reflection on the year past, and the year becoming….

Red-billed Spurfowl, common to the area

Starting at Africat with the leopard, cheetahs and caracals was special. So too were the cards (Nicolai’s still unwrapped in plastic), shower gels and creams secreted away by the family for my gifts.

From the Waterberg we headed north-west towards Khorixas, a dirty, run-down hovel with the petrol station as its main reason for being. We spent a long day in the car, having to by-pass the famous free-standing rock – Vingerklip.

I know what you're thinking - cheap skate, its a non-vintage

Arriving at Abu Huab campsite, on the bank of the dry riverbed, we set up camp and celebrated twenty years of marriage with Verve Cliquot champagne under the stars. Starting with our honeymoon in Zimbabwe, awakened at night by the huge sausage tree pods falling on our tent, over many lands and experiences since, it has certainly been an adventure. Celebrating my birthday in two such special places is a privilege. Thank you for all the thoughts and birthday messages.

And so it comes about that I am standing on sacred ground, shared by early man and beasts, a place where man was moved beyond oral-verbal communication – to Art – a higher expression, visual and spiritual, to be more than they were before, to become one with Nature – to be as powerful as Nature. Early geometric designs, circular patterns of the sun perhaps, or is the circle a psychological symbol of Oneness and completeness?

rhinos engraved into local culture

It was the beasts that were primarily depicted by the Stone Age hunter-gatherers some 20 000 years ago. Amazingly, there are paintings of sea lions, indicating contact with the coast about 150kms away. Rhinos are frequently engraved and painted, perhaps indicating their value as a spiritual animal, but certainly as an animal of significance, power and beauty.

half human half lion

Ostriches, giraffes, elephant, antelope and their spoor are all shown but the most controversial is the lion with its paws in a twisted perspective so that the footpad is viewable, and most curiously, an arm and hand emanating from it’s tail.

Our large, lady guide was initially warm and shared her own knowledge of the area, and their traditions, having grown up in the area. However, certain beliefs were spoken as if factual, such as the rain washing off the colouring of the Namibian Rock Agama. Nevertheless, we were certainly exposed to a different belief system.

Janet our guide, shared some of her culture

The stone-and-waste materials, green building blends beautifully into the huge boulders and the history and facts displayed are excellent. The spring, named Twyfelfontein is a relatively new name for a very old fresh water spring, known to the early Damara people who lived in the area as Ui-Ais. Roughly this means a water place where stones stand clustered together. In the 1940s when the area was openened up for farming, it was David Levine who bought the land and named it Twyfelfontein, meaning ‘doubtful spring’.

This is a special place for me requiring silence and introspection: from where has man

the old Welwitschias can get up to 2000 years old, & only flower after 20 years

come and evolved, how are we still evolving – if it all? Has that much really changed? We still have basic needs for water, food, shelter and social rituals. What about our spiritual values and traditions?

We also explore the Burnt Mountain with its coal-like soil and scant vegetation and the 4m high Organ Pipes in the opposite Gorge. The welwitchias in the area are abundant, fascinating as they live to hundreds of years, surviving this aridity and producing only two leaves in it’s lifetime. The male and female plants are separate and are a living link to the Gymnospermae (like pines and ferns). At the Petrified Forest, there are many more, and wonderfully, new ones still emerging, a mere 11 years old amongst the huge, petrified remains of Gymnosperms, washed down in floodwaters in a much wetter era from the Congo Basin.

We shared pots of coffee with an interesting German, Jorg (Mieke), who has been travelling North and West Africa for two years alone on a motorbike. Photographs on the BMW

Jorg full of fun & enjoying life to the max

GS were mandatory. He continues despite being robbed twice and having a suspected fractured wrist. We packed up, smooth pebbles of the riverbed underfoot, calls of the yellow-shouldered, cobalt-blue-rumped Ruppell’s Parrots overhead and the Red-billed Spurfowl scratching under our massive Camel thorn (Acacia erioloba), wondering at the indomitable human spirit.

Leaving Windhoek we felt happy to be back in the wild.  It was already dark when we arrived and Nicolai was sleeping in the back of the car.  Dad quickly went in and came out with a lady that gave us a quick brief and directed us to the campsite.  The campsite was large and comfortable and we had to wear our head torches to setup.

We wake up at 05h50 and mom unusually was the first one out of bed making our tea.  We had our oats and went to explore the pool area.  We followed a rather muddy footpath towards the pool and found two most peculiar looking hoof prints with two dots behind each one, so we went back to fetch dad, the tracking expert.  I got out my tracking book and called dad to the right spot.  I told him I thought it was a grey Rhedbok that bounded across the path (since we saw lots on the way).  But it still did not have the dots.  Dad gave his opinion and said it could have been any of the smaller antelope that registered its hooves.  Next we measured it and agree on Steenbok. 

early morning spoor

Just then we heard the rumbling of the engine and we rushed back to camp.  It turns out it was Moses our guide and Nico his assistant.  40 minutes late – no offence.

First we went to see Wahoo, a leopard that had lived at Africat all his life.  Waiting behind his enclosure we were told how when Wahoo was just a day old he was hand raised by the owner of Africat and his ex-wife in the guest bathroom.  Then we watched him from the hide made entirely out of clay, gorging himself on the hip-bone of a donkey, and drinking from his pond.  I was amazed at how loud his teeth were grinding against the bone.  He was the biggest leopard I had ever seen.  What a pity my camera battery went dead.  I only managed a few pictures.

Wahoo

The Cheetahs in the first 150 hectare enclosure were called Bubbles, Buttons and Curly.  We found all three of them.  Curly, a female, the last that we saw, suddenly jolted from her daze and pricked up her ears.  Now we could hear it too.  It was a quad bike engine, “meal time” it seemed to say.  We followed Curly – although we couldn’t keep up to the fence where Bubbles and Buttons were already waiting, rather impatiently for their IAMS cat food.  The neighbors in the next enclosure did the same.  After watching them gulp down their chunks and the neighbors steel the donkey legs, we tracked them to a clump of bushes where the cheetahs from that enclosure Barney and Gypsy had taken refuge, chomping hungrily on the bones.  Along with them was a family of four slender mongeese, snatching anything they could find, just as jackals do to lions, I thought.

We drove to the clinic and information centre and grabbed a few pamphlets.  Afterwards, we went to see Yoda, Max and Shingi, the resident Caracals at Africat.  Shingi I noticed was a bit fat, but the other two did not mind as they greeted each other by rubbing their heads.  Then Shingi squatted and did – you know what?

Once back at camp, we went for a swim in the pool we had discovered earlier.  We found a female Rock Martin nesting on one of the trusses nesting in the kitchen area.  We stood on the counter, but could not reach.  Even dad could not see into the nest, but felt inside extra gently with his finger, and found 3 warm bumps.  “She’s got three” he shouted excitedly, then over balanced and fell.  He now has a big purple bruise on his thigh.

Opinion – Rhino Conservation

Did you know that Namibia last confirmed rhino poaching incident was in 1995?

This is absolutely FANTASTIC.  What a breath of fresh air.  I must tell you that it is not surprising having met some of the senior management.  Manie Le Roux is one such Champion.  Kind sir, I salute you and your staff that are doing such a tremendous job on conserving our fauna and flora.

They run their division like a well polished business with systems that most would be proud of.  Forget the double checks they have triple checks.  Some of the systems they have in place include:

• Physical counting of rhino such that each rhino is physically noted/recorded at least once a month.
• Tracking devices in the rhino which are monitored often.
• CCTV cameras at strategic points.
• Rotation of staff.
• Continual training.
• They have vehicles equipped with specifically for darting and treating their rhino.  They can immobilize, record, fit a tracking device in less than 20 minutes (record 13 minutes).
• They have certain independent management that have different reporting structures, which allow for adhoc work patterns.  This avoids routine and keeps staff on their toes.
• They have a dedicated SMS number where any member of the public can call and alert folk of suspicious activity.
• They involve the community big time.

The Ministry of Environment and Tourism (MET) is now in a position to translocate rhinos into areas where they have occurred previously.  Before this happens, the approval of local citizens must be obtained.  Once approved by the community, an integral part of the reintroduction process is to bring the still-tranquilised rhino to a place where it can be seen and touched by community members, who give it a name before it is released.  The animal thereby becomes a part of the community, rather than being viewed as something forced upon it by others.  They have translocated quite a few breeding populations to communal conservancies under the custodian program and have not yet lost one to poaching.

rhinos are firmly engraved in Namibian culture

The Save the Rhino Trust has an important strategic partnership with the MET and together they implement rhino strategies such as expanding the range, supplementing small populations.  Without joint participation, chances of successfully conserving the Kunene population as an example, would be in significant danger.

One of the strategies of the MET is to not publish the exact number of rhino population,(debatable) however, those that need to know, know.  One thing for certain, after South Africa, Namibia has the second biggest rhino population worldwide.  As citizens of the earth, we have a vested interest in their success.

Manie Le Roux, Pierre du Preez, Piet Beytell and your staff, congratulations, we salute you.

Opinion

It was at this time that we heard about the death of Spencer.  Spencer was the white male rhinoceros chosen to have a treatment of the ectoparisiticide by the Rhino Rescue Project that we support. 

During this process the rhino is sedated the same way as it (or any other animal) would be in typical conservation practices.  The process is to dart the animal, stabilize, then commence the procedure.  In this instance, drill a hole into the horn, take a DNA sample, fit a tracking device, inject the ectoparasiticide into the horn together with the dye.  These procedures went off quickly and well.  Unfortunately when it came to revive Spencer from the anaesthetic, he did not respond, and he died.

Death is seldom well received however it is extremely unfortunate that Spencer was the chosen ambassador for the process being performed via “open doors” for the press.  Spencer’s death was as a direct result of the darting/anaesthetic process used.  The application of the ectoparasiticide was not the cause of his death.

The full results of the autopsy are still to be finalised, however the initial thought of the 2 vets that were overlooking the process is that it was a combination of his age (11 years) and a poor heart condition.

The C2C team sends out their condolences to the Hearn family, specifically Lorinda who is a modern day heroine.  Her relentless passion in saving the rhino is undeserving of this event.  Thank you Lorinda, for your continued hard work and efforts in saving the rhino.  Your total transparency will serve you in good stead, as you remain noble to the cause.

The OSCAP(Outraged SA Citizens Committed Against Poaching) team, led by Allison Thomson, this organization is making a difference by keeping those that are interested informed.  The membership grows each day and it prevents the numbers of rhinos being slaughtered from going unnoticed.  They make a difference.  Allison is ably supported by a number of active members like Shelli du Plessis and others.  Thank you for all your hard work.  Check out www.oscap.co.za.

C2C not in a straight line continues to support the Rhino Rescue Project and OSCAP as a viable means of saving Rhino deaths worldwide and destroying the market for rhino horn forever.

 Windhoek

We’re in Windhoek at a guesthouse called Rivendell.  I don’t know that it was named after the place Tolkein described.  Judging by its appearance, some of its structure has been here forever.  I’m feeling a little battle weary, I find that the Namibian prices are high.  Not quite Cape Town prices, but not far behind.  A simple snacky dinner was 400N$ at a fairly simple coffee shop in their upmarket mall.  On the way back in the motor vehicle, I remark to Celeste, having been here for about 6 hours, I’m ready to leave…

stones bounced off the trailer onto the back window about 12km before reaching Sesriem

The truth is we have no choice really.  We have some admin to do.  The back window of the Prado needs to be replaced.  I ordered one from Sossusvlei on Friday, and now PG has confirmed the arrival of a replacement window today from Johannesburg.  They are scheduled for fitment the next day 08h00. 

The trailer needs some TLC too; 

ü  The struts (arms) that hold out the tent are malfunctioning, and the one side needs to be replaced.

ü  We need to put another 2 brackets for 2 more jerry cans on the trailer.  With our fuel consumption going through the roof, we need the extra kilometers, specifically around the northern part of Ethiopia, where on crappy roads, we need a range of 1200 kilometres.  On bad roads, we are getting 20l/100km, and we’re not even in low range yet…

ü  The bracket for the jockey wheel needs to be replaced.

ü  We need an extra solar panel.  With temperatures at 40 degrees plus, we are not able to get below -12 degrees.  This means that the freezer is working almost permanently and this really consumes battery power.  Our solar panel only puts out about 50 W? which just aint going to cut it.  With a second panel, we’ll get close to doubling the power output – theoretically – in optimum conditions.

 Nicolai needs to get to a doctor.  His ‘sores’ are popping up more frequently and we’re not sure whether they are boils or what exactly.  Best to check this out whilst we have care available to us.

 I also need to catch up with Manie Le Roux, who holds a senior position at the Ministry of Environment and Tourism (MET) – a referral from Patrick Lane from the Cederberg and discuss the Rhino Rescue Project with them.  This is technology they may use in the future.

 We also had news from Soozi from Multi Media Solutions, thank you guys for your hard work.  This company does some awesome work and they have sent out MMS and SMS messages free of charge.  Vodacom and MTN have also come to the party and are not charging.  PLEASE guys SMS the word RHINO to 36071.  This donates R5/day towards rhino conservation and you get messages of inspiration.  Numbers are below expectation, please help us make a difference. Spread the word to your mates too…

There is also more shopping to do I guess;

ü  Elastoplasts

ü  Nicolai’s goggles need to be replaced, they were swiped from his camp chair.

ü  Gas regulator – Cel managed to cross thread the old one?

ü  Cel needs a new bra

ü  Killi drink bottle to be replaced – cracked in the freezer

ü  Memory – with DVD & camera shots x3 (Danica is really enjoying her camera), we’re going to run out

ü   Supplies – meat, groceries, etc.

We were running behind on our blog and we’ve grouped some places together in an effort to catch up.  The take-up so far has been disappointing, with about 100 hits or so a day on the website, we had hoped for more.  The SMS subscriptions have been slow too, with only 35 or so subscribers (Jan 2012).

From here we head off to Twyfelfontein.  This is one of Celeste’s favourite places, and perhaps deserving that it is her birthday and our 20^th wedding anniversary.  There is a lodge at Twyfelfotein and so I’m hoping to check us in there as a surprise.  She has been awesome this trip.  A true friend, companion, wife, mother, teacher, counselor, could I ask for more?

Cederburg wines are great

We may catch a movie tomorrow as the kids haven’t seen one for ages.  Chipmunks 2, Sherlock Holmes, Cel is going to get her hair done, I’m going to watch silicone dry, hmmm (back window needs to be replaced).

Windhoek was pretty on the way in.  We came through the Remhoogte pass, stopped at a great bakery in Solitaire, and were greeted by beautiful yellow flowers on the sides of the road (mostly milkweed).  We did have time to identify the Boscia foetida subsp. foetida (Stink-bush) and Boscia albitrunca  (Shepherd’s tree) on the way in, and Cobas (Cyphostemma currorii) – a special thickset succulent tree in this region.

Cobas

  The section through the Namib Naukluft was extremely pretty.  With the early morning light picking up the different ridges and valleys, every corner produced a new, refreshing vista.  We spent 4 days at Sossussvlei.  This was a treat not to have to move for 4 whole days.  This place washes your feet with sand, and heals the soul at the same time.  It was sad leaving as neither Cel nor I were sure when we’d be back.